Out of Office: Backpacking Shadow Lake
This summer, I thought I'd finally be crossing a bucket-list hike off my list.
After three straight years of trying, my friends and I finally secured reservations camping at Mount Assiniboine Lodge, one of the most sought-after backpacking destinations in Western Canada. The plan was to hike in over two days, spend a day exploring Windy Ridge, and then take a helicopter out. I was especially excited since I'd never been on a helicopter before.
Unfortunately, Mother Nature had other plans. It was late June, Sunshine Ski Village was still open, and no one had successfully made it through the trail. As much as we wanted to believe conditions would improve, we eventually had to cancel the trip.
With friends already in town, our backpacks packed, and the weekend free, we pivoted to a different hike. I didn't know anything about it, but I was happy to be getting into the mountains.
The Boring Part
The first six kilometres were a bit of a slog. The hike only gains about 500 metres of elevation in total, but most of it comes right at the beginning. You start beside the highway and gradually climb through the trees. After about two kilometres, the trail levels out, and then it's just forest as far as the eye can see.
It isn't until around the seven-kilometre mark that things start to get interesting. A river begins winding alongside the trail for most of the remainder of the hike. This is also the first place where the views really open up, with mountains stretching out in every direction. Small alpine meadows are scattered with wildflowers, and at around the eight-kilometre mark, there's a campground. Since we were headed for Shadow Lake Campground, about 14 kilometres in, it felt like the perfect place to stop for a break.
The Bear-itories
I've been hiking in the Rocky Mountains for the past 20 years, and until this trip, I'd only ever seen one bear, and even that barely counts. It was a small black bear sitting across a river, probably a kilometre away, on a busy trail. Not exactly the kind of encounter that makes for a great story.
About 20 minutes after our break, we heard rustling ahead and immediately stopped. 50 metres up the trail, a fully grown black bear stepped out onto the path.
We'd prepared for this. My sister and I pulled out our bear spray and started backing away. Our partners (bear spray-less), tucked in behind us while keeping their eyes on the bear. It didn't seem aggressive, just curious. As we slowly backed away, it continued walking down the trail toward us.
At one point, (after hearing this story, my mom nearly killed me for it), my sister and I stopped for a better look. I quickly pulled out my camera, and by the time the bear started moving again, I was recording.
This was obviously a terrible idea. Still, we felt reasonably confident that the bear wasn't looking for trouble. It just seemed curious about these four hikers wandering through its territory. After 10 minutes of slowly backing down the trail, the bear grew bored and disappeared into the trees. We returned to the campground, waited awhile, until we decided it was safe to continue toward our destination.
More Hiking
Thankfully, the rest of the hike was uneventful. We arrived at Shadow Lake Campground, pitched our tents, ate our disgusting dehydrated dinners, and then left our gear behind to explore the lake.
Having done almost no research on the hike, we assumed it would be a quick 100-metre stroll from camp.
We were very, very wrong.
Another 2.5 kilometres later, after a steady stream of complaints from yours truly, we finally arrived... and any lingering frustration disappeared instantly.
The first thing we noticed wasn't the mountain itself, but its reflection stretching perfectly across the still water. Snow still clung to the summit after the unusually cold spring. The lake looked like a sheet of glass. As the evening light softened, I started to notice different things: the river quietly trickling behind us, a small waterfall spilling down from the glacier, the scent of pine, fresh water, damp earth, and wild grass.
There was no one else there. Whether it was the rain keeping hikers away or simply one of the Rockies' lesser-known gems, I don't know. But being able to close your eyes, listen to the sounds around you, and feel the nature around you made the experience feel even more special.
The night was filled with laughter, card games, and very little sleep. The hike back the following morning was thankfully uneventful. By the time we reached our lodging, a well-earned patio beer, some World Cup soccer, and an early night's sleep were exactly what we needed.
Mount Assiniboine will have to wait for another year. But sometimes the trips you never planned end up being the ones you remember most.
Is it Damn Good?
The hike to Shadow Lake was an incredible experience, but if we're being honest, the first half was not exactly thrilling. The endless trees and gradual climb made for a pretty ordinary start. Once the trail opened up, though, everything changed. River valleys, mountain views, a surprise bear encounter, and the glass-like waters of Shadow Lake made the second half of the hike unforgettable.
Roam Deodorant is built for exactly these kinds of adventures. Made with an all-natural, aluminum-free formula, it kept me feeling fresh through long days on the trail without irritating my skin or leaving behind unwanted stains. Whether you're hiking through the Rockies, exploring a new trail, or just spending a day outside, it's designed to keep up.
The hike itself was beautiful, but because of that slow and uneventful first half, I can't quite call it the trip of a lifetime.
Rating: FINE